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In this final post about building my Kevin costume, I will go into how I made the body. While Kevin’s body looks elaborate, it was more time-consuming than difficult to make. The two biggest challenges were how to make it cool enough to run in, and how to get the effect of feathers without buying up every boa in the Portland metropolitan area.

I started Kevin’s body by making a paper pattern out of excess Christmas wrapping paper and trying it on for size. The shape is just a very oversized vest that opens in the front. The shoulders of the body rest on a PVC pipe on the frame.

The first challenge was materials. I wanted something breathable but with enough stiffness that it would give Kevin some shape. I got lucky and found some vinyl screening at my local Fabric Depot that came in several colors. They call it “Pet Screening,” and if you can’t find it locally they sell it online Astrazeneca Crestor Discount Card.

Screen

The screening was great to work with because you can cut it with scissors, hot glue onto it, and easily sew sections together. Because I knew the “feathers” wouldn’t completely cover the base, I was glad to find colors that were close to my plan for Kevin. If you are doing a project that will have an opaque outer layer, the color would not be important. In fact, I’m using my leftover screening from Kevin right now to make his friend Dug the talking dog.

I cut pieces of the screening according to my pattern and hand-sewed them together. You could probably do it on the sewing machine, but I wanted the option to take it apart easily in case my pattern was off.

KevinInside

With the base taken care of, I needed to tackle the feather issue. Real feathers are expensive and delicate, and I needed to check this costume on a plane. I was rescued from my dilemma by a fursuit enthusiast (who knew there was a whole community of folks interested in fur suits?) who offered a great tutorial on Buy Dapoxetine Priligy. (I also have that link on my Crafting Help page.) Then it was just a matter of making lots of strips of fur and combing them into feather shapes. I made the strips in varying lengths and widths so they would look more natural. I didn’t bother putting shafts on my “feathers” since I wanted them to be flexible. Once I had enough “feathers,” I got out the hot glue gun and went to work gluing them on the base. I didn’t glue them the whole length so they would flutter in the wind a bit.

I did end up buying some real feather trim from Fabric Depot because it was just too spectacular to walk past it. It is the hot pink trim. There are a few real feathers mixed in with the orange as well.

I bought some aqua blue “angel” wings from ebay to use for Kevin’s wings. I hit them with a coat of polyurethane because the blue color came off on everything it touched. Even at that, I have to apologize to anyone who took a picture with me and got home and was puzzled why their shoulder was all blue. More polyurethane is needed to take care of that issue. I put Velcro down the wings to attach them to a piece of vinyl tubing that was attached to the shoulder PVC pipe.

Wing

You’ll notice that a large part of the body is covered in the same navy blue crushed blue velvet that I used on the head and neck. This fabric gave the illusion of very smooth feathers without having to glue a million little bits on. It has a nice stretch so it was easy to drape the neck and back. I just hand-sewed that onto the base.

Once I had my feathers on I hand-sewed some Velcro down the front for a closure. The feathers hide the Velcro very well.

Velcro

The other bits of the outfit were my regular black running tights and a tech shirt from Target that miraculously matched Kevin’s navy blue. For my feet, I took an old pair of my husband’s black socks and cut a slit in the bottoms. Then I used self-adhesive Velcro on my running shoes to hold the socks in place over my shoes. I wrapped up my hair in a scarf made from Kevin’s velvet, and I was ready to run.

People were amazed that I could run in such a large costume, but honestly, it was not that hard. I did not account for California’s heat wave, but it was still only a bit warm. Hearing everyone shout “KEVIN!” and “Kevin IS a girl!” made the miles go very quickly. So did all the kind comments from my fellow runners on how much they liked the costume. It was a total blast and I would do it again in a moment. In fact, I AM doing it again in May here in Portland. We have a whole group of costumed runners that will doing the Starlight Run as the Up characters. I will do a blog post about how I am building Dug, as there are some interesting techniques for making a fur head that I’ve again borrowed from my soul mates, the fursuit people.

My next post though will be about my husband’s Russell costume. There is a lot of good information already out there on Russell so I will link to the posts I found most useful. I’ll also tell you about some shortcuts of my own to make it a bit easier. If you have questions about Kevin or Russell, just let me know.





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Before I describe how I made Kevin’s head, I want to backtrack a little and talk about proportions. In planning Kevin, I took a picture of the “real” Kevin and divided it out as shown above. That gave me rough proportions for how big the head should be in relation to the body and neck. Unfortunately, my legs are not as long as Kevin’s, or I would have had a career as a supermodel, or possibly a Harlem Globetrotter. But the legs were less important than the body, neck, and head, since that is what is mostly seen in a crowd of runners. By my calculations, my Kevin head should be about 26″ long. Which is pretty darn long. So I scaled back a bit and made it 22″ long.

I was not organized enough when making the original Kevin to take pictures, so I’ve built a Kevin head 2.0 to show you the process. I made a few improvements that I wasn’t bold enough to try on Kevin 1.0. This one has a movable mouth that will hopefully open and shut as I run.

In my research on Kevin costumes I saw several that had paper mache heads. They looked good, but my past attempts at paper mache (someday I’ll describe my epic Totem Pole costume) made me think twice about it. It’s very hard to get paper mache smooth, it tends to get heavy if you build it up, and I wasn’t sure how it would hold up to running and weather. I researched how the costume pros do it and it turns out they use a lot of foam. So I did more searching until I found instructions from sculpt.com on Voltaren Buy Nz

I didn’t want to spend money on foam until I knew I could master the technique, so I scoured craigslist and found someone giving away scraps of foam sheets. I also didn’t want to buy special tools for carving, so I gathered up a serrated knife from the kitchen and some sanding blocks from the garage. I experimented with these tools and materials until I was confident I could make it work.

KevinMaterials

The hardest part of a sculpting project for me is breaking the piece into component parts. So for Kevin, I searched for “how to draw Kevin,” and there were several posts like this that were helpful:
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I could see that Kevin’s head is basically an oval with two roughly triangular extensions out the front for the beak. Not wanting to cause myself more work than necessary, I bought a large Styrofoam ball from the craft store and cut it in half to make the top and bottom sections of her head. I also got an egg shape that I cut in half for her eyes.

I cut the beak sections from my scrap foam sheet with a serrated knife. You don’t have to be super-accurate about the shape since you can shape it with the knife and sanding blocks.

HeadCutOut

For the top beak section, I had to cut a smaller piece of foam to glue on top to give enough height. I made a pattern (shown in orange below) for the top beak section so it would be about the right size. I glued the two top beak sections and the top of the head together. You can’t use hot glue on foam (it melts the foam), so I used Weldbond glue from the craft store. It works great if you are patient and give it plenty of drying time.

HeadTopBeak

Once, the glue was dry, I started to shape the upper head and the lower beak (which was not attached yet). I used my serrated knife to cut away bits of foam from the beak until I had roughly the shape I wanted. I was surprised at how easy this was. And how messy. I worked over a trash can, but the little bits of foam have lots of static and cling to everything. No wonder the instructions I read said to wear a Tyvek suit. If you have a Tyvek jacket, put it on.

UpperBeak

When I was happy with the rough shape, I used a sanding block to smooth out the foam. The first time I tried this I was doubtful it would work. But it made the foam fairly smooth and you can do quite a bit of shaping at this stage. It doesn’t have to be completely smooth.

LowerBeakSand

Because I wanted the lower beak to move, I put it on a “hinge.” I used plastic canvas that I duct-taped to the full length of the lower beak. The canvas was cut long enough to go under the head section.

LowerBeak

I had used a plastic cable tie covered with pink Duck tape (they have every color you could want at the craft store) for Kevin 1.0’s tongue. But I wanted this one to be a bit floppier, so I covered a slim piece of plastic canvas with the pink tape.

Tongue

Now I was ready to glue the bottom of the head, the tongue, and the lower beak to the upper head. I used some garden staples from the Dollar Store to reinforce the connections between the sections.

HeadWithBeak

I put on some duct tape to smooth out the transition between the head and the top beak. I probably wouldn’t do this again, as it was kind of lumpy and couldn’t be sanded to be smooth. Once the coating was on, it was sort of a duct-tape-mache.

DuctTape

Next I cut the Styrofoam egg in half for the eyes. I sanded off the pointy ends of the eggs/eyes so they looked oval. I attached the eyes to the head with more Weldbond and garden staples.

It was starting to look like Kevin! Now that I had the shape fairy smooth, I put a coating over the foam to give added durability and to allow me to paint the eyes. You can’t paint directly on foam very well because the paint either sinks in (acrylic paint) or melts the foam (spray paint). Being cheap, I didn’t want to buy actual foam coating, so I went with a mixture of wall patch compound and latex primer. That has a nice stiffness to it so you can lay in on thick and fill in gaps. If you have larger gaps between pieces, you can stick in small bits of Styrofoam and then fill in with coating to secure it. When the coating was dry, I gave it a light sanding. I did this a few times, coating and sanding smooth. Since I was going to cover the head with fabric, I didn’t obsess about getting it perfectly smooth. If you are doing a piece that will just be painted, you could spend more time getting it smoothed out.

HeatCoating

When I was happy with the coating, I painted the eyes with glossy white craft paint. Then I was ready to cover the head. It was my husband who made the excellent suggestion that I cover the head with fabric instead of painting it (credit where credit is due). My original plan with Kevin 1.0 had been to use fabric for the neck and paint her head. But he pointed out that by making a sort of “sock” to cover her head, I could let her head swivel while making sure it didn’t go flying off mid-race (he is a worrier).

I pulled upon all my hours of watching Project Runway to drape and cut fabric pieces to cover the beak and head. I used stretchy fabrics for extra “give,” the blue is stretch velvet and the yellow is a stretch nylon knit. I hand-sewed the pieces together so they fit snugly onto the head. I left the eyes sticking out of the fabric and put aqua stretch trim around them. Covering the head with fabric is a difficult process. Even though this was my second Kevin head, there was a point where I lost confidence I could make it work.

KevinFabric

Next up was painting the beak. I used regular craft paint on Kevin 1.0 but switched to Tulip fabric paint on this version. The fabric paint made it easier to blend the shading from yellow to orange.

I used hot glue to attach black felt to the inside of the beak. This covered the fabric seams that run down the beak. I also hot-glued on the black felt eye pupils. Wow! What a difference eyes make in bring a character to life. I have some peacock feathers for the top of the head but won’t put them on until just before race time. I made a hole in the bottom of the head for the neck tube, and Kevin’s head was done!

HeadComplete

In my next post I’ll describe how I made the body. It involved a cool plastic netting I found at the fabric store and a technique for making faux fur feathers that I would never have thought of.

About Me


Hi! I am Sandy, from the running paradise of Portland, Oregon. I have been running races (very slowly) and making costumes for many years. I started this site to bring information and inspiration to others like me, who love any excuse to dress silly.

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